QUICK THROTTLE® MAGAZINE - NORTHWEST EDITION
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by Arlin Harmon, Full Throttle Performance

Fuel Injection Woes
Q: My bike has been sitting for most of the winter. I bought it new in 2005, and now have a little over 10,000 fun miles on it. The bike has been great, without any problems, until this year. Last week, I took it out of the garage to get it started and ready for the new season. It’s been on a battery tender all winter, and it fired right up. While it idled, I noticed black smoke coming out of the mufflers. I gave it a little gas, and it coughed and spit all over the garage. Finally it died, and wouldn’t restart. What happened? I put gas treatment in the tank before putting the bike in storage. I called 2 shops about the problem, and they could only tell me to bring it in so they could check it out. This is tough for me, as I live quite a distance from their shop and don’t have a trailer. When I tried to get a hint of what to check for, I got nowhere. They said I needed special equipment to check out the EFI. I hate this. I’m starting to wish I had a good old carburetor. I’m anxious to ride, and can’t believe anything could have happened to my bike in the garage since I last rode it. It doesn’t make sense to me. I read your articles and I’m hoping you can help me. —John Blake, Internet

A: John, I hope I can. Bikes are getting more complex all the time, and therefore, harder to work on. But there are some things you can check yourself that may help you get going—at least enough to get you to a shop that can do all the factory checks.

Your EFI depends on information provided by several sensors on the motor. These sensors take information in, and then translates it through electrical current. Should a sensor fail, it won’t send the proper information back. Your ECU will get false information and won’t control things properly. The second thing controlling your EFI, is fuel delivery. This is related to fuel pressure, good fuel, and clean injectors, filters and lines.

Since your bike is so new, it would seem the sensors shouldn’t be bad. So I’d go to the fuel. Go buy a bottle of Chevron fuel cleaner, and put a strong mixture in the tank. Pull the plugs and replace them. Hook up a battery tender and let your battery charge till full! After a full charge, try to start the bike. Dirty fuel injectors can play a big roll in problems with your EFI. If it starts, let it warm up, and give the cleaner a chance to go through the system. If it runs at this point you’ve probably cured your problem. Go for a ride and burn through that tank of gas with the cleaner in it, repeat this cleaning procedure at least every 4th tank of gas.

This is an easy fix, and I’m in hopes it will do the trick. But if not, go on to the second step. Without going into all the possibilities, this one I’ve found causes lots of problems.

First, when you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump prime for a second or two? If not, you could have a fuse blown, or more than likely a bad connection under the dash. The wire is yellow and green and lies under the dash panel. They can and do get disconnected.

Finally, if the connection is ok and you can hear the fuel pump run, try turning on the key for a few seconds, then off for four. Repeat this routine four or five times. There’s a sensor called the crank position sensor. If this sensor gives a bad or weak reading, the bike won’t start, or will be hard to start and run. We’ve had quite a few of these in the shop. I’m not sure what happens to them, but they’re the number one replacement on problem EFIs.

Good luck with it. Please call me and let me know how it works out. Full Throttle Performance: 253-472-7633

New Exhaust
Q: I’ve been riding for the past 5 years and just got my second Harley last summer. It’s a Dyna Wide Glide and I love it. I finally got some extra cash to buy some real exhaust pipes. You know, the kind you can hear. The thing is, I don’t want to spend all that money on a new exhaust just to have it turn gold and blue after it’s been run a few times. Can you give me an idea of which ones won’t color so easily? Also, will my bike still run all right with out getting a Dyno tune? I need a little more time to save for that. — Karen Davies, Spokane, WA

A: Hey, Karen, it sounds like you’re excited about your new bike. I would be, too! Dynas fit me really well. I think they’re my favorite, too. Here’s the deal. All pipes will show color close to the head. How much depends on the heat shields installed on them. So if you don’t want any color to show, you need a double-wall construction pipe. Several manufacturers make them, in both 2-into and 2-into-2 designs. I just tested a new pipe from Roseburg, Oregon made by Pipe Works. Their pipe is one of the highest quality pipes I’ve seen. But they’re not double-wall—they’re ceramic coated. For sure worth checking it out.

With these pipes you shouldn’t have any problem with discoloration—even if your bike starts running a little hot after the install, without a tune. Yes, you need a tune to get your bike up to speed without the heat. But, your EFI will cover you until you get your savings together. Just follow these steps:

Don’t let the bike idle standing still, when warming up. The moving air is what your hot pipes need to keep them from coloring. Just start it and ride away easy, until you feel the motor getting warm. Keep the revs down, until you’re sure.

When you stop in traffic or a light, don’t let the bike keep running while you’re sitting still. Just shut it off, then re-start it when the light changes. Don’t run your bike hard, and don’t lug the motor when under a load at slow speeds. Shift down and raise the RPMs.

Do buy a Power Commander and have your bike remapped ASAP.

And, if you have any intention of installing a free-flowing air cleaner, do it before your Dyno tuning session. When you get your bike Dyno tuned, be sure and let the operator know you don’t want colored pipes. Make sure they have lots of power fans, and point them at your exhaust to keep those pipes cool.

Exhaust pipes will color easily when put through their paces on the Dyno. Very easily, for sure, if the chrome is thin and cheap on your exhaust pipes. So take your time to find your new exhaust.

Noisy Primary
Q: I recently bought a 2007 Ultra. Haven’t had a chance to put too many miles on it, but I’m noticing quite a bit of noise coming out of the primary. Plus, it seems to make more noise than my last bike when shifting. I’ve been to the dealer and they just say to put some more miles on it, the noise is nothing to worry about. Have you heard anything about a problem with the transmission? I can’t shift into 6th unless I’m really moving. Otherwise, it sounds like the primary is rattling. Any suggestions? — Charles, Boise, ID

A: Charles, I’ve heard the same complaint ever since the 2007’s came out. They make a lot of noise when shifting. None of the owners I’ve talked to have had any real problems, though. After a few test rides, I think the drive train is designed to use the first 5 gears most of the time. The problem comes in when you try and shift into 6th too soon. It puts the motor in what I would call a lug position. It acts just like it would if you shifted to 5th going way too slow and turning the throttle on. The bike might pull the load, but it would buck and jerk until your speed gets high enough for the gear you selected. 6th seems to be for the road and high-speed cruising.

As far as the loud clunking in the transmission—I don’t have an answer. Except to think the cut on the gears must be different. If you’re using synthetic oil, you might want to try an oil like RedLine, with a heaver viscosity. I’ve been told the oil will cushion some of the clunk in the new transmission. Enjoy your ride!

From the Desk of Arlin Harmon
Have a question?
Send it to askarlin@v-twinperformance.net

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