OFFICIAL SITE - Quick Throttle® Magazine - Northwest Edition: Ask Arlin

Q: Arlin, I just picked up my new Road Glide. So far I’ve put 500 miles on it, and I’m having a blast. The problem is the bike really seems to be down on power. My wife and I ride two-up most of the time. The bike really strains to get up some of the mountain passes. I’d like to increase the power but don’t want to void my 7-year warranty. Can you give me any suggestions? When I asked the dealer what I could do without hurting my warranty, I was told H-D was in the process of pulling many of their high performance products off the shelf, and any interference with the factory set up on the bike, would be considered breaking the EPA law—and could result in huge fines and loss of license. What gives? Is this really true? If so, is there anything we can do to work on our on bikes? — Ben Johnson, Internet

A: Whoa! That’s a big can of worms you’re opening. I need to really be careful about how I try to answer this. The truth is, I really don’t know, and doubt that anyone will until enough time passes and the new and old laws are put into effect and enforced. One thing is for sure, something is going to happen that changes the things we can legally do to our bikes. Will it be enforced? Are they enforcing the non-smoking law now? For now, I believe you can make mild modifications to your bike without any problems. When I say mild, I mean aftermarket products that enhance performance without damaging your bike. When you install a breather system, Power Commander and free flowing exhaust (if installed properly) your bike will run more efficiently without being dirty.

Power Commanders can be set by the operator for clean mixtures—everywhere except idle. If you’ve been through an inspection, the test is made at idle to about 3000 rpm’s. If the Power Commander is set up correctly, this area can be left alone. You may still get a stumble sometimes, but you will be able to pass an emission test. Up in the HP range, you should be able to change this area for performance without hurting the lower range.

Like I said, I really don’t know how these tests will be done since this info is based on the tests that are conducted now. As far as voiding your warranty, I do believe it would have to be written in the H-D warranty you receive, stating that if any changes were made that would affect its EPA rating, the warranty would be void. This would include anything that would cause more noise as well.

For now, at least I haven’t seen anything like this in the warranty information—and we’re not being tested. So the best parts to help your lack of power are:

• Free flowing exhaust: Screamin’ Eagle has some that are acceptable.

• Power Commander 111 with USB : Tuned by a competent technician— not the kid that’s just learning how to run the Dyno .

• Free flowing air intake system with breathers.

One other thing that might help would be a slightly smaller engine sprocket . One tooth should do it. You’ve got a great ride. Let it run like it was designed. You’ll love it.

Q: Hello, Arlin! I look forward to reading your articles every month. Please keep up the good work! I feel like you give us the answers we’re looking for, while the dealerships either don’t want to or flat don’t know the answer. I own a Big Dog Chopper. It’s got a 117” S&S with a 6-speed transmission. When trying to start it I only get about 3 good cranks and the battery won’t put out enough juice to try again. And, when I try to start it, the starter doesn’t engage, it just spins. Is my starter too small? Or is the battery? Help! — Turk Anderson, Blaine, WA

A: Hey, Dude, thanks. I love to help with any problems I can. If the information I pass on helps another rider solve a problem with his bike, that makes me happy, too. Sounds like the “big vibe” syndrome. You’ve got a killer motor in your bike. With lots of inches and HP, the motor is going to vibrate. How hard you ride it determines the amount of vibration that reaches the rest of the bike. I’m sure your engine is a solid mount to the frame. This combination causes things to break, or come loose and eventually fall off. Your problem is, for sure, in the electrical system. I’ve seen coils disintegrate under this kind of pressure. All connections need to be checked and cleaned. Don’t let the battery jump around in the battery box. Lots of customs come with loose batteries. Check the size of the battery wire. Use 2 grounds from the battery, one for the frame (no paint please) and one for the engine. As for the starter, depending on the type of switch you have, be sure the connections are tight and clean. On direct-type starters, check the button mounted directly to the starter—be sure you’re engaging the button all the way, with a firm push. Sometimes, when you don’t, you’ll get an incomplete circuit—just enough to make the starter spin, and miss teeth. Also, remember the type of ride you have takes special care to keep going. All customs need this attention. Keep it together!

Q: I own a Dyna Wide Glide Custom. This bike is my baby, and it seems to have a fever. What I mean is, it gets so hot I can hardly keep riding it. I have aftermarket short pipes with baffles. I just installed a Crane ignition and coils, and Andrews 558 cams with branch heads. The heads came with pistons and a Super E carb. The motor is 95 inches. My break-in is almost over, and I’m really concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Also the bike is really hard to warm up, and pops and sputters at low speed. — Susan Wilson, Portland, OR

A: Susan, you sure put the right parts together. Your motor should be very healthy. Heat from the exhaust can be caused by more than one thing, but a good place to start is the carb, since you’re saying it pops at low speed. This could be a lean condition that would make it hard to warm up, and if allowed to idle very long, will make that unwanted heat. Sounds like you have about a 10-to-1 compression ratio. This is worth some heat all by itself.

Check your timing. Most of these motors are set up with an ignition on them, and are static tuned at the factory. They can be off. In fact, I had a problem similar to yours. We found the initial timing retarded some 6 degrees. This would also create more heat. If you’re not into doing this kind of work, spend the money and have it done by a professional tuner.

Be sure to have it checked for air leaks around the exhaust, heads, and carb manifold.

Best to take care of this now, before you really get on it. Between these possibilities, any one, or a combination of all three, can and does cause excessive heat.

Q: I’m the proud owner of a 1998 Sportster 1200. I bought the bike new in New York and rode it out to the west coast, and it’s still my daily rider. It really hasn’t had any problem except for a lope or jerking at slow speeds through town. I’ve been told by several service technicians this is the way the Sportsters are. Can you shed any light on this? — John Robinson, Internet

A: John, the best I can do is to give you some suggestions for things that cause a motor to jerk at low speed. If you have these areas checked out buy a good tech, you should be able to cure your problem. Sportster 1200s are great motors, very compact, with transmission and the drive train attached. This makes for a great package. The motors are smaller, so of course they don’t have as heavy a fly wheel to smooth the power pulses at low speed. But, the Sportster motor is still a torque motor. Unlike the Buell, it still possesses heavy, slow turning flywheels.

Has the carburetor ever been tuned with a jet kit? If so, is the plug toward the back of the float bowl drilled out? If not, it should be, so you can reach the small screw inside to adjust your low speed jet. When you get to this screw, turn it all the way in until it stops. Gently please! Then back it out 3 ½ turns. If you can’t find the screw, it may have a plug over it. This means it needs to have a jet kit installed, with these adjustments. Have this work done by a professional.

Next, check the primary chain. If it gets too loose it will cause the Sporty to jerk at low speeds. Have it set to factory specs, and have it checked every time you change your oil. Same for the rear belt. Keep it adjusted correctly. These belts are meant to run on the tight side. Read your book, and set it the way they suggest.

One last thing on the motor. When having the carb checked out, have the ignition checked at the same time. Be sure everything is working correctly, and the motor is timed to factory specs.

Loose swing arm bolts, wheel bearings, loose or broken spokes—take a good look at motor mounts, and all fasteners. When your bike is tight and right, it should not jerk at low speeds. Find the problem, sounds like you’ve got a good friend there.

Have a question you want answered? E-mail your questions to
askarlin@v-twinperformance.net or fullthrottledyno@msn.com, or call or stop by the shop in Tacoma, WA, located at 5212-A S. Washington Street, 253-472-7633.


QUICK THROTTLE® MAGAZINE - NORTHWEST EDITION Your Free Local Monthly Motorcycle Magazine!
NATIONAL HOME ABOUT US ARCHIVES BIKER FRIENDLY BIKER GALLERY BIKER NEWS EDITORIAL OUR ADVERTISERS RIDE & EVENTS CALENDAR ADVERTISING INFO H-D's FOR SALE LINK TO US SUBSCRIBE	Q: Arlin, I just picked up my new Road Glide. So far I’ve put 500 miles on it, and I’m having a blast. The problem is the bike really seems to be down on power. My wife and I ride two-up most of the time. The bike really strains to get up some of the mountain passes. I’d like to increase the power but don’t want to void my 7-year warranty. Can you give me any suggestions? When I asked the dealer what I could do without hurting my warranty, I was told H-D was in the process of pulling many of their high performance products off the shelf, and any interference with the factory set up on the bike, would be considered breaking the EPA law—and could result in huge fines and loss of license. What gives? Is this really true? If so, is there anything we can do to work on our on bikes? — Ben Johnson, Internet A: Whoa! That’s a big can of worms you’re opening. I need to really be careful about how I try to answer this. The truth is, I really don’t know, and doubt that anyone will until enough time passes and the new and old laws are put into effect and enforced. One thing is for sure, something is going to happen that changes the things we can legally do to our bikes. Will it be enforced? Are they enforcing the non-smoking law now? For now, I believe you can make mild modifications to your bike without any problems. When I say mild, I mean aftermarket products that enhance performance without damaging your bike. When you install a breather system, Power Commander and free flowing exhaust (if installed properly) your bike will run more efficiently without being dirty. Power Commanders can be set by the operator for clean mixtures—everywhere except idle. If you’ve been through an inspection, the test is made at idle to about 3000 rpm’s. If the Power Commander is set up correctly, this area can be left alone. You may still get a stumble sometimes, but you will be able to pass an emission test. Up in the HP range, you should be able to change this area for performance without hurting the lower range. Like I said, I really don’t know how these tests will be done since this info is based on the tests that are conducted now. As far as voiding your warranty, I do believe it would have to be written in the H-D warranty you receive, stating that if any changes were made that would affect its EPA rating, the warranty would be void. This would include anything that would cause more noise as well. For now, at least I haven’t seen anything like this in the warranty information—and we’re not being tested. So the best parts to help your lack of power are: • Free flowing exhaust: Screamin’ Eagle has some that are acceptable. • Power Commander 111 with USB : Tuned by a competent technician— not the kid that’s just learning how to run the Dyno . • Free flowing air intake system with breathers. One other thing that might help would be a slightly smaller engine sprocket . One tooth should do it. You’ve got a great ride. Let it run like it was designed. You’ll love it. Q: Hello, Arlin! I look forward to reading your articles every month. Please keep up the good work! I feel like you give us the answers we’re looking for, while the dealerships either don’t want to or flat don’t know the answer. I own a Big Dog Chopper. It’s got a 117” S&S with a 6-speed transmission. When trying to start it I only get about 3 good cranks and the battery won’t put out enough juice to try again. And, when I try to start it, the starter doesn’t engage, it just spins. Is my starter too small? Or is the battery? Help! — Turk Anderson, Blaine, WA A: Hey, Dude, thanks. I love to help with any problems I can. If the information I pass on helps another rider solve a problem with his bike, that makes me happy, too. Sounds like the “big vibe” syndrome. You’ve got a killer motor in your bike. With lots of inches and HP, the motor is going to vibrate. How hard you ride it determines the amount of vibration that reaches the rest of the bike. I’m sure your engine is a solid mount to the frame. This combination causes things to break, or come loose and eventually fall off. Your problem is, for sure, in the electrical system. I’ve seen coils disintegrate under this kind of pressure. All connections need to be checked and cleaned. Don’t let the battery jump around in the battery box. Lots of customs come with loose batteries. Check the size of the battery wire. Use 2 grounds from the battery, one for the frame (no paint please) and one for the engine. As for the starter, depending on the type of switch you have, be sure the connections are tight and clean. On direct-type starters, check the button mounted directly to the starter—be sure you’re engaging the button all the way, with a firm push. Sometimes, when you don’t, you’ll get an incomplete circuit—just enough to make the starter spin, and miss teeth. Also, remember the type of ride you have takes special care to keep going. All customs need this attention. Keep it together! Q: I own a Dyna Wide Glide Custom. This bike is my baby, and it seems to have a fever. What I mean is, it gets so hot I can hardly keep riding it. I have aftermarket short pipes with baffles. I just installed a Crane ignition and coils, and Andrews 558 cams with branch heads. The heads came with pistons and a Super E carb. The motor is 95 inches. My break-in is almost over, and I’m really concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Also the bike is really hard to warm up, and pops and sputters at low speed. — Susan Wilson, Portland, OR A: Susan, you sure put the right parts together. Your motor should be very healthy. Heat from the exhaust can be caused by more than one thing, but a good place to start is the carb, since you’re saying it pops at low speed. This could be a lean condition that would make it hard to warm up, and if allowed to idle very long, will make that unwanted heat. Sounds like you have about a 10-to-1 compression ratio. This is worth some heat all by itself. Check your timing. Most of these motors are set up with an ignition on them, and are static tuned at the factory. They can be off. In fact, I had a problem similar to yours. We found the initial timing retarded some 6 degrees. This would also create more heat. If you’re not into doing this kind of work, spend the money and have it done by a professional tuner. Be sure to have it checked for air leaks around the exhaust, heads, and carb manifold. Best to take care of this now, before you really get on it. Between these possibilities, any one, or a combination of all three, can and does cause excessive heat. Q: I’m the proud owner of a 1998 Sportster 1200. I bought the bike new in New York and rode it out to the west coast, and it’s still my daily rider. It really hasn’t had any problem except for a lope or jerking at slow speeds through town. I’ve been told by several service technicians this is the way the Sportsters are. Can you shed any light on this? — John Robinson, Internet A: John, the best I can do is to give you some suggestions for things that cause a motor to jerk at low speed. If you have these areas checked out buy a good tech, you should be able to cure your problem. Sportster 1200s are great motors, very compact, with transmission and the drive train attached. This makes for a great package. The motors are smaller, so of course they don’t have as heavy a fly wheel to smooth the power pulses at low speed. But, the Sportster motor is still a torque motor. Unlike the Buell, it still possesses heavy, slow turning flywheels. Has the carburetor ever been tuned with a jet kit? If so, is the plug toward the back of the float bowl drilled out? If not, it should be, so you can reach the small screw inside to adjust your low speed jet. When you get to this screw, turn it all the way in until it stops. Gently please! Then back it out 3 ½ turns. If you can’t find the screw, it may have a plug over it. This means it needs to have a jet kit installed, with these adjustments. Have this work done by a professional. Next, check the primary chain. If it gets too loose it will cause the Sporty to jerk at low speeds. Have it set to factory specs, and have it checked every time you change your oil. Same for the rear belt. Keep it adjusted correctly. These belts are meant to run on the tight side. Read your book, and set it the way they suggest. One last thing on the motor. When having the carb checked out, have the ignition checked at the same time. Be sure everything is working correctly, and the motor is timed to factory specs. Loose swing arm bolts, wheel bearings, loose or broken spokes—take a good look at motor mounts, and all fasteners. When your bike is tight and right, it should not jerk at low speeds. Find the problem, sounds like you’ve got a good friend there. Have a question you want answered? E-mail your questions to askarlin@v-twinperformance.net or fullthrottledyno@msn.com, or call or stop by the shop in Tacoma, WA, located at 5212-A S. Washington Street, 253-472-7633.
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